婴儿戒指.珍珠骷髅

2019年03月01日 FOX国际艺术



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婴儿戒指.珍珠骷髅



珍珠,光泽华美,是许多美好事物的象征;骷髅,代表死亡、颓丧甚至愤怒,这两个本来不相干的东西,融合在一起的确令人心生敬畏。像是这件戒指,Nakaba 用珍珠雕刻成骷髅造型,少了骷髅的暗黑和珍珠的俗气,融合后便多了几分别致。Nakaba以16、17世纪的葬礼艺术作为灵感,藉以强调生命的没有意义,所有尘世间所有的美好和追求,都是只是过渡性质。这跟绘画中的虚空派风格很像,虚空派的在对世界的描绘中往往透露出一种阴暗的视角。




这些作品中的物体往往象征着生命的短暂,以及死亡的永恒。或许正是出自于对“死亡”的着迷,才使得骷髅头这一元素在他的手中大放光彩。然而随着岁月变迁,骷髅已是设计师们竞相追捧的灵感元素。骷髅头的不详寓意消失,反而以其个性、奇趣、充满神秘色彩的气质赢得了众多时尚人士的青睐。



SHINJI NAKABA的骷髅珍珠都是手工打磨,他只是都笃信那些象征着时间、技巧与经验累积所打造出来的恒久魔力。Nakaba 表示,他希望能让自己设计的东西赋予新生命,他目前最常做的还是珍珠骷髅系列饰品,就连 Shinji Nakaba 本人也相当着迷于这两个冲突元素的迸发出的灵感。



与其说Shinji Nakaba是珠宝设计师,不如说他是艺术家,他的另外一个系列作品中截取部分人体为模型,每件作品都表达了一种缺失的完美感。例如这件半脸型戒指给人一种梦半梦半醒的感觉。

SHINJI NAKABA



I started making jewelry since 1974 after I experienced fashion(design& dressmaking),Hairdressing,Shoesmaking,and graphic design. I am making jewelry from recognition as "wearable sculpture" and exhibit them in group and solo exhibitions . I use not only precious metals and stones but also something usual,such as aluminum Beer can or plastic bottle,or even some discarded materials. I'm dealing all the materials equally no matter how precious or Not precious they are.Bring out their hidden talents and Beauty, then being re-born as Unknown treasures.
And one of my great interest is start a revolution to the Glyptic .Glyptic has been succeeded from ancient times.    


Other Works



Interview


Why did you choose jewelry? 

Simply put, I can do it the best. It’s not that I am set on jewelry. It just met my capabilities. My mother ran a dressmaking shop, so I would see beautifully dressed women all the time. I remember dreaming of being a fashion designer, an artist, and so on. But paintings don’t sell for too much. In the end, it was after I had experienced them all that I came to feel this way.

You work with everything from trash cans to precious pearls. Any reason for the contrast?

I’ve always loved both precious jewels and useless gadgets. In the 90s, I started using trash, metal, and aluminum for jewelry; I started to realize a fresh kind of beauty for jewelry could only be created by using materials equally, regardless of their value. You can create so much beauty with things that are thought to be useless. I’m always thinking that I might be the last person in the world to see something like this. I feel quite excited by the thought.



When designing, do you only have the piece in mind or do you think of the person wearing it?

It’s not a matter of imagining the piece or the person; my motivation for creating something comes from what I feel is innovative, and what I can’t help myself from being over curious about. It might be self-centered to think that there must be others in this enormous world who would want the same things as me. But extreme egoism might just be the way to contribute to something or someone.

Your designs include skulls, snakes and body parts. What is your fascination with the dark and obscure?

Many say that contemporary art is hard to understand when you don’t have prior input, but considering my work, you could say that anyone – with or without the input – can understand it. I also just find it interesting. Carving body parts is intriguing; it’s challenging to bring out the texture and curves of the skin. Figurative sculpture has lost popularity in the age of modernism, but I feel like there’s still a spark left for it. It’s very motivating to see people enjoying my skull designs, when they actually weren’t fond of skulls before.

Your pearl skulls are a global favorite, and even made it to the 2016 Oscars, with Mad Max: Fury Road makeup artist Lesley Vanderwalt wearing a set. Are they a favorite for you too?

I do have special feelings for the pearl skulls. I’ve always liked using baroque pearls [pearls that aren’t perfectly round, but a little crooked], but I was never able to successfully carve them. Everyone involved in working with pearls believed it couldn’t be done. But then I tried carving one specific type and managed to carve to the center without anything peeling off. I look back and I find it incredible that I’m carving people’s faces or skulls from pearls. The moment you think you’ve mastered art is the end.


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理念与使命


艺术是一棵树摇动另一棵树,一朵云推动另一朵云,一个灵魂唤醒另一个灵魂。作为艺术家应该承担着改变人们生活的责任,应该学会成为真正的创作者,而不仅仅是当做一个职业。


Fox是首家研发了线下线上1+1”作品集跨界课程体系的国际艺术工作室。旗下还设有展览馆、产品开发基地、设计师经纪公司等多个部门。核心团队由英国伦敦中央圣马丁、美国帕森斯、英国皇家等顶尖艺术学院海归设计师、艺术家以及专家教授在2010年于伦敦和北京共同创立。


Fox国际艺术坚持传达狐狸精神-无畏、自由和颠覆。保持的使命是启发创意的无限延伸,倾尽全力创造平等机会、提倡多样性、充满活力与革新精神的工作环境,这也使工作室能吸引最有才能和创造力的设计师团队。不同文化的冲击,力求独特、创意、自由、甚至是极端反叛的艺术氛围,创意在这里并不是纸上谈兵。


Fox的设计师与学员,无论是背景还是专业能力都是业界首屈一指,与众多知名一线品牌、著名博物馆合作过,如大英博物馆、V&A博物馆、德国国立宝石博物馆、GucciCartierAlexander McQueen、施华洛世奇、Gareth PughJohn GallianoDiorAlexander WangGiles Deacon、陈奕迅、余文乐等。



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