在过去很长的一段历史中，女性的着装常常是被男性主宰和加以限制的。因此，为了追求着装上的舒适，女性常常为之付出了巨大的艰辛与努力。
BBC最近总结了近年来全世界范围发生的，女性在服装和配饰上的革命。它们颠覆了传统意义上对女性的服饰之美的定义。
衣橱革命：女性穿戴的五项变化 (via BBC)
韩国的眼镜
对美瞳当道，五彩睫毛盛行的中国女孩来说，她们很难想到，邻国的韩国女生已经开始摒弃假睫毛和隐形眼镜了。如今，更时髦的装扮是戴上一副或前卫、或知性、或优雅、抑或是呆萌的框架眼镜。
而引领这一时尚的是韩国一位电视新闻女主播任铉珠(Yim Hyun-ju)。
(Via MBC News/YouTube/Business Insider)
When South Korean news anchor Yim Hyun-ju got into work on 12 April 2018, she ditched her false eyelashes and contact lenses for glasses, and social media exploded.
2018年4月12日那天，韩国新闻主播任铉珠决定抛弃假睫毛和隐形眼镜，戴上她的框架眼镜上了电视直播，她的行为引爆了社交媒体。
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
在韩国，男性新闻主播常常可以带着眼镜出镜。而女性主播常常要遵循带妆、不佩戴框架眼镜的常规审美路线。
不过，这位每天凌晨2:40分起床，6点准时出现在直播间播报新闻的小姐姐，在经受了眼睛干涩到需要大量使用眼药水来缓解干眼症状的困境后，终于鼓起勇气，卸下妆容，以最自然舒适的状态投入到工作中，而不再追求别人眼中所谓的“美”。
"I'd grown up with Korea's so called 'presenter style' - immaculate hair and make-up, tightly fitting formal suits and high heels," Ms Yim, 35, tells the BBC.
“我从小到大都被灌输韩国的这种所谓的‘主持人风格’——完美的发型和妆容，紧身修身的正式西服和高跟鞋，”35岁的任铉珠告诉BBC。
"You have no choice but to play the part of the 'beauty', but I always felt stressed."
“你别无选择，不得不扮演‘美’的角色，但我总感到很有压力。”
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
不过，她的决定起先受到了来自同行的反对。
On the day, she sensed disapproval from some members of the newsroom. But after her first interview with the press, many commentators applauded her choice, and she decided to persist.
那天，她感觉到了来自编辑部同事的反对。但当她首次接受媒体采访后，许多评论者称赞了她的决定，她决定坚持下去。
What Ms Yim didn't predict was how her story might still resonate with women all over the world a year on.
任当时没有想到，她的举动在一年后还依旧能引起世界各地女性的共鸣。
"Thanks for breaking the invisible taboo - I was motivated by you and finally have the courage to wear glasses after many years," one woman recently posted on Ms Yim's social media account.
“感谢你打破了这个无形的禁忌——我受到你的鼓舞，在这么多年后最终有了戴框架眼镜的勇气，”一位女性最近在任铉珠的社交媒体账号上留言。
Even South Korean airline Jeju has followed suit, lifting its ban on glasses for its female stewards.
甚至韩国的济州航空也效仿了这个做法，取消了他们禁止女性乘务员佩戴框架眼镜的禁令。
An entire movement called 'escape the corset' has caught on in South Korea, with women shaving their hair and going without make-up to challenge received beauty ideals.
一项被称作“逃离紧身胸衣”的运动也在韩国流行起来，女性剃头素颜，挑战传统的美的理念。
"When I dropped the pressure of having to be 'beautiful', I discovered who I really am," says Ms Yim.
“当我放下必须要‘美’的压力后，我发现了真正的自我，”任说。
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
(Via BBC)
无独有偶，前不久，英国的维珍航空也取消了女性乘务人员工作时必须化妆穿裙装的规定。过去该公司规定空姐至少要涂口红、抹腮红、刷睫毛膏。
(Via BBC)
Virgin Atlantic spokesman Mark Anderson said: "Not only do the new guidelines offer an increased level of comfort, they also provide our team with more choice on how they want to express themselves at work."
维珍航空发言人Mark Anderson表示：“新规定不单让我们的团队可以更舒适，也提供了更多选择，让员工可以在工作中表达自己。”
British Airways dropped its no-trouser rule for women in 2016, although it still requires female crew to wear make-up.
英国航空在2016年解除了对女性员工不得穿裤装的规定，不过他们仍然要求女性乘务员化妆。
Virgin Atlantic removes cabin crew make-up rule (via BBC)
巴西的连体衣
(via BBC)
今年43岁的安娜·保拉·达席尔瓦(Ana Paula da Silva)，是巴西南部圣卡塔琳娜州新当选的议员。今年2月1日，她在议会宣誓就职。然而，她在就职仪式上的着装，一件红色的深V连体衣，在巴西引起轩然大波。
"I tried on hundreds of clothes. Nothing worked. Until I found the red pantsuit," she tells the BBC.
"我试穿了数百件衣服，但没有称心的。直到我发现了那件红色的连体衣，"她告诉BBC。
The photos of Ana Paula's speech that day went viral, but not because of its contents. She got home that night to find an avalanche of messages on social media.
安娜·保拉演讲当天的照片在网上疯传，但不是因为她演讲的内容。那天晚间回到家后，她发现自己社交媒体账号遭到网友留言的狂轰滥炸。
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
这位议员从未想到会有这样的反应。
"I keep looking at this picture and thinking: 'What is wrong with my clothes?' I don't think it was inappropriate because my clothes are in accordance with the protocol."
“我一直盯着照片想：‘我穿的这件衣服怎么了？’我不认为它有什不合适的，因为我的衣服符合规定。”
The protocol of Brazil's parliament states that women should not wear skirts or dresses shorter than above the knee and that men should never wear shorts. But the rules say nothing about cleavage.
巴西的议会规定，女性不应穿短裙或者膝盖以上的裙子，而男性永远不该穿短裤。但是规定中没有涉及女性的乳沟。
“I spent my whole life holding myself back, doing things I didn't want to do because that was what society expected from me. I spent so many years wearing clothes I didn't like because they were what my husband approved of. But after my divorce, I realised it was time to be myself,” she says.
“我一辈子都在压抑自己，做一些我不想做的事，因为那些事是社会希望我做的。我这么多年来穿着我不喜欢的衣服，因为它们是我丈夫认可的。但在我离婚后，我意识到是时候做我回自己了，”她说。
"If it was a man with his shirt unbuttoned for such a ceremony, nothing like this would have happened. Maybe a few comments saying he should have worn better clothes. But nobody would make personal judgments, or say he is a hustler, or doubt his character.
“假如是个男性在这样的仪式上没有扣好衬衣的扣子，那就不会发生我所遇到的情况。可能会有些评论说他应该把衣服穿穿好。但不会人身攻击，或者说他是一个男妓，或者怀疑他的品性。”
"People never admit they are sexist, but this episode shows the sexism that is still hidden in society."
“人们永远都不承认他们有性别歧视，但这次事件表明性别歧视仍隐藏在这个社会中。”
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
苏丹女性的裤装
2018年10月，苏丹女歌手莫娜·玛吉·萨利姆(Mona Magdi Salim)被苏丹公共秩序警察逮捕，原因是人们在社交媒体上分享了她在喀土穆一场音乐会上穿裤子演唱的照片。
Ms Salim would have likely been sentenced to 'not more than 40 lashes, a fine, or both', according to Sudanese law. But the court suspended her case.
根据苏丹法律，萨利姆可能受到不超过40下鞭刑，或罚款，或两者兼而有之。不过法庭搁置了她的案子。
People have also fallen foul of the law for not wearing a hijab, or for having a particular hair style, or for wearing make-up.
苏丹女性还可能因为没有戴头巾、梳某种发型、或化了妆而犯法。
But critics have described the law as particularly oppressive towards women.
批评者认为这项法律是对女性的严重压迫。
Despite existing for 28 years, the law does not specifically define what indecent dressing is, leaving its interpretation to the judgement of the public order police and prosecutors.
尽管已经存在了28年，这项法律并没有特别定义什么样的服饰属于衣着不检、有伤风化，而将它的解释权交给了公众秩序警察和检察官。
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
苏丹政府在该国北部地区实施保守的伊斯兰法。根据《公共风化法》，任何行为或衣着若妨害风化，都将被处以鞭刑或罚款。在喀土穆，有专门的“公共秩序”警察执行这一法律。
苏丹女子穿长裤被判有罪（via新京报）
苏丹的记者和人权活动家们努力了很多年，希望引起人们对这项法律的关注。但直到2009年，记者兼前联合国雇员卢布娜·侯赛因(Lubna Ahmed Hussein)由于穿长裤而在喀土穆的一间咖啡厅里遭到逮捕，才引起了全球的关注。
侯赛因举着一张标语上面写道：“知道你的权利，这样你就不被压迫”(via BBC)
For her court hearing, Ms Hussein chose to wear the same clothes she was arrested in.
在法庭听证会上，侯赛因选择穿着她被捕时的服装出庭。
“Unfortunately before my case many women who were victims were silent because society itself would not stand in solidarity with them,” Ms Hussein tells the BBC.
“不幸的是，在我的案件发生之前，很多受害女性保持沉默，以为整个社会不会站在她们一边，”侯赛因告诉BBC。
“After my case, because international media carried the story, I had the support of women and human rights defenders to [help people realise] that the women who had been arrested under the law were not actually criminals but victims.”
“我的案件发生后，因为国际媒体都报道了我的故事，我得到了女性的支持和人权家的支持，帮助人们理解那些因为这项法律遭到逮捕的女性不是罪犯而是受害者。”
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
突尼斯女学生的制服
(Via BBC)
在突尼斯，学校的学生行为准则有一条规定，女生必须在她们的衣服外面，套一件宽松的海军蓝制服。在小学里，女生和男生都被要求穿这种制服，但在高中，只有女生必须穿。学校的监管者认为女孩的身体会让异性分心，包括男性教师。
It wasn't about fashion. It wasn't about expression. It wasn't even that the smock was uncomfortable.
突尼斯的女学生抵制这种学生制服并不是为了时尚、也不是为了表达自我。甚至不是因为穿着这种制服不舒服。
"It was that we were required to wear it but boys weren't," Siwar Tebourbi, now 20, tells the BBC.
“只是因为女生被要求穿，而对男生却没有要求，”现年20岁的Siwar Tebourbi告诉BBC。
"In our final year of high school some of us stopped wearing it," Ms Tebourbi says.
“在高中的最后一年，我们中的一些人不再穿它了，”Tebourbi说。
One day, a few weeks after Ms Tebourbi and her friends had dropped the smock, a supervisor warned the schoolgirl that she was at risk of expulsion. She and her friends mobilised.
Tebourbi和她的朋友不再穿着这种制服后，过了几星期，有一天，一个管理者警告这个女生，她有被开除的风险。于是，她和她的朋友发起了一场运动。
Around 70 girls and boys of Pioneer High School came to school the next day - 30 November 2017 - wearing white T-shirts with the words "No Discrimination" on them.
第二天，2017年11月30日，先锋高中的大约70名女生和男生来到学校，穿着白色T恤衫，上面印有“禁止歧视”的标语。
They called their campaign 'Manish Lab-setha' - 'I won't wear it.'
他们把他们的运动称为“我不穿。”
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
他们收到了来自世界各地的邮件。印度、美国、法国的女性都和他们取得联系，鼓励他们。其他学校的女生也不再穿这种制服。
“我不穿”运动引起了全球媒体的关注，但是学校方面却没有作出回应。
丹麦的面罩
一些伊斯兰国家，比如伊朗、沙特阿拉伯，女性必须在公共场合用头巾遮盖她们的面部。有好几个欧洲国家却禁止人们在公共场所遮盖他们的脸部。
居住在丹麦的Sarah Ali就是这么一位坚持在公共场合戴着面罩的穆斯林女性。
"There are only 30-50 women in Denmark who wear the niqab," she tells the BBC. "Most of us are very active in local communities. Now they want to punish us for basically dressing."
“在丹麦，只有30到50名女性戴面罩，”她告诉BBC。“我们大多数人在当地的社区非常活跃。现在他们想要因为我们的穿着而惩罚我们。”
Denmark has followed the lead of other European countries, such as France and Belgium, in banning clothing which obscures the face. The law prohibits any face coverage, with the exception of "reasonable" cases. Otherwise, the fine is 1,000 Danish Krone ($150).
丹麦，以及其他几个欧洲国家，例如法国和比利时，禁止遮挡面部的服装。法律禁止任何面部的遮挡，除非有"合理的"案例。否则，将会被处以1000丹麦克朗罚款。
The Wardrobe of Rebellion (via BBC)
来源：环球时报GlobalTimes
