IT’S just a two hour flight from Australia’s east coast, but most people struggle to tell you where it is.
Sitting 660km off NSW lies Lord Howe Island, Australia’s lost paradise that could possibly be one of the most beautiful places on earth.
With a population of just 350, and only 400 tourists allowed on the island at any one time, it is isolated, remote and unlike any other.
A World Heritage listed paradise, it is completely unique. Sixty per cent of the insects on the island and 47 per cent of the island’s plants are found nowhere else on the planet. There are 207 different bird species, more than 1600 insect species, including one that was thought to be extinct.
It has the world’s most southern coral reef ecosystem that was established as a Marine Park in 1999. More than 500 fish species can be found, including the famous kingfish and the unique Doubleheader Wrasse.
Lord Howe Island has an almost prehistoric feel; at times you feel like you’re on the set of Jurassic Park thanks to its towering rock formations and unusual wildlife. Formed more than seven million years ago from a volcanic eruption, it is now a remnant of an extinct shield volcano.
Nowhere is this felt more than on a walk to Little Island. Hugging the coastline, you are led through ancient forests of banyan tress and endemic kentia palms to the breeding ground of the incredibly rare Providence Petrels.
The only place in the world where these birds breed, they fly around the towering twin peaks of Mt Gower and Lidgbird and, in a rare experience, can be called down from the sky if you make enough noise.
Lord Howe Island is a beautifully preserved ecosystem and its locals, “islanders”, go to great
lengths to keep it that way. Many residents are sixth-generation islanders who have been brought up with a strong sense of history and purpose.
Only one car per household is allowed, and only residents can buy houses on the island under the regulation that they must live in them for at least six months a year. All waste is shipped to mainland landfill and fishing is limited so that daily catches are enough to feed the population only.
The main form of transport is bicycles or by foot — you can cycle the length of the island in just 20 minutes, wind dependent. And be prepared to be completely cut off. There is no mobile phone service, wi-fi is limited and temperamental and many resorts have no televisions.
But it is the beauty of Lord Howe Island that stops your breath. Famous for its hikes, Mount Gower is known as the best day walk in Australia. Or for those less adventurous — but a mean feat nonetheless — a trek to the top of Malabar Hill is spectacular. Offering some of the best views of the island, the Malabar cliffs are the world’s largest nesting ground for birds. From May to September you can see the rare Red Tailed Tropic bird ducking and weaving around the cliff faces. It is no wonder that Lord Howe Island has become a bird lovers’ paradise.
The beaches of Lord Howe Island are unsurprisingly pristine — but what may surprise you are the hidden surf spots and the underwater marine life filled with tropical fish, turtles and sizeable reef sharks (not the human eating type).
Keen surfers will find some impressive right handers at Middle Beach. Walking through a bush track you’ll come to an opening over a dramatic cliff face with stairs to take you down to the water. The waves are plentiful but the crowds are not.
The most popular beach on the island is Ned’s Beach. Go snorkelling, stand-up paddle boarding, surfing, swimming and feed teems of local fish jumping at the water’s edge. But the best bit is the beach barbecues. If you’re lucky enough to stay at a resort, they will pack you a lunch and deliver it to a barbecue of your choice.
Lord Howe Island used to have a reputation as a “newlyweds or nearly deads” destination, but that’s changing. Its new activity offerings and more affordable packages are bringing young blood to the island.
Kite surfing, diving and other water sports are all attracting a younger crowd, as well as the opportunity to switch off and experience a more simpler way of life.
While flights to the island are expensive, off-season deals are a steal. Winter packages start from as low as $749 including flights, not bad considering a flight in peak season alone can set you back around $1200.
Accommodation can range from budget to eco-luxury. Capella Lodge is the most famous and most luxurious resort on the island sitting out of town overlooking Lovers Beach. The Lodge’s nine suites are sophisticated yet laid back, its staff are friendly and down to earth, but the most surprising thing is its restaurant.
Lord Howe Island may be remote and completely isolated but it’s food is world class. The head chef, Peter Smit, does a degustation menu up there with some of the best Aussie mainland establishments.
Known as a “forager”, Peter sources most of his ingredients from the island with dishes including edible flowers and local kingfish. And breakfast doesn’t disappoint. The eggs have a rich orange yolk and the flat whites are city standard.
Other accommodation includes Pinetrees Lodge or Ocean View apartments. And if a relaxed night with a beer is what you’re after, there’s always the local bowling club.
Lord Howe Island is unlike any place you’ve seen before. Beautiful, dramatic and adamant about preservation. And lying just off the coast of Australia, it proves you don’t have to travel far to find paradise.
Qantas Link is the only airline servicing the island and luggage is limited to 14 kilograms per person. Flights depart from Sydney on most days, from Brisbane on weekends and a seasonal weekly service from Port Macquarie.
This reporter was a guest of the Lord Howe Island Tourism Association.
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