THERE’S a prawn frenzy in Australia in the summer. We Aussies eat tonnes of them at Christmas, with insane queues snaking out of fishmarkets on Christmas Eve in an effort to stockpile kilos of these beauties.
I’m sure there are people who never look sideways at a prawn the rest of the year but who consume their body weight in prawns on this one day of the year.
Prawn fever seems to die off once the weather cools down. We’re not in the mood to throw another shrimp on the barbie and so our minds turn from prawns altogether.
But we’re missing out. Their flesh is still as sweet and firm as ever. And in addition to the prawns we’re used to seeing in the fish market — tiger, king and tiny schoolies — there’s a new kid on the block.
If you’re lucky you might just come across scarlet prawns.
These big beauties are seriously impressive, up to 35cm long, rich red in colour in their raw state (they look like cooked prawns) and with a flavour and texture that, to my mind, is second to none.
They almost taste like lobster, only better (I know, I know, that’s a big call).
Truth be told they’re not a new prawn. They used to be sold as coral prawns, but they’re not always around and are well worth snapping up when you see them.
They’re caught in deep waters and hit the market unfrozen. With such a beautiful hero ingredient, it’s all about treating it simply and doing only what’s needed to let these beautiful prawns shine.
I poach the prawns in a simple court bouillon, which sounds fancy but is only a matter of simmering water, vegetables, herbs and vinegar, then adding the prawns.
Once the prawns are added, keep half an eye on them. The water should gently simmer and never boil, and the prawns only take five minutes or so to cook perfectly.
While the prawns poach I whip up a batch of thick glossy mayonnaise spiked with a little chardonnay vinegar, perfect for dipping. I use a mild-flavoured oil such as grape seed to make the mayonnaise in order not to overpower the sweet flavour of the prawns.
You might have a jar of shop-bought mayo in the fridge or pantry, but don’t be tempted to take the short cut.
Home-made mayo wins every time and is the perfect companion to these incredible prawns. Roll your sleeves up and get peeling.
Scarlet prawns with mayonnaise
Serves 4
Preparation time 20 minutes
Cooking time 10 minutes
2 egg yolks
1 tbs Dijon mustard
3 tbs chardonnay vinegar
Salt and pepper
400ml grape seed oil (or any neutral flavoured oil)
Juice of ½ lemon
12 green scarlet prawns
1 carrot, peeled and roughly diced
2 ecshallots, diced
1 celery stick, chopped
100ml white wine vinegar
1 bay leaf
4 parsley stalks
Lemon cheeks to serve
In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks with the Dijon mustard and vinegar, season with salt and pepper then gradually whisk in the oil in a steady stream until all has been absorbed by the egg yolks. Add lemon juice to taste and season with a little more salt and pepper
as required.
To cook the prawns, peel and slice all the vegetables and place in a saucepan that is big enough to hold the prawns. Fill the saucepan with water and season generously with salt. Add the herbs and vinegar and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes then add the prawns. Gently poach the prawns for 4 to 5 minutes before straining.
Place the cooked prawns in a bowl and cover them with a few handfuls of ice and allow them to chill for 5 minutes.
Remove the heads and shells from the prawns. Using a sharp knife, cut along the back of the peeled prawn and remove the coral and stomach. Serve the peeled prawns with the mayonnaise and the cheeks of lemon.
Matt Moran is co-owner/chef of Aria Restaurant, 1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay, 9252 2555; Chiswick at the Gallery, The Domain, 9225 1819; Chiswick Restaurant, 65 Ocean St, Woollahra, 8388 8688; North Bondi Fish, 120 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi, 9130 2155; mattmoran.com.au
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