没有被听见不是沉默的理由｜RCA服装在诉说什么？,FOX国际艺术微信公众号文章

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创意在这里并不是纸上谈兵！

Seiya Chen

n one of the few obviously "themed" collections of the RCA line-up, Seiya Chen presented her version of speeding around a skate bowl after getting into skate herself. High fashion's interpretations of the subculture have been numerous but rather than referencing the real uniform of skaters, Chen looked at conveying speed and action by picking up on the chevron patterns in road marks and arrows, and how they would traverse around the body. Cutting up and folding black leather into the correct formation became Chen's central motif and they'd appear unexpectedly alongside dusky pink or hazard yellow silks or contrasted with lame sewn on the other side of the leather. They are strategically placed on the curved-shouldered sweatshirts, cropped gauchos and A-line skirts, bending around as though there were numerous hairpin turns on the body. Skate might be "so hot right now" but there's definitely more to see in Chen's surface detailing arsenal.

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Alice Gibberd

At first glance, it's difficult to figure out Alice Gibberd's deceptive knitwear. She might have notched up a technical first with her heat-pressed polyurethane yarn knit which meant she was able to raw-cut her garments. Coming from a family or architects, Gibberd has long been obsessed with the interplay between light and darkness which has resulted in her largely monochrome and controlled collection. Once her technique had been finely honed in, she concentrated on the contrast between sections in the garments which were heat pressed (where it has the appearance of leather) and the sections which were au natural as it were. Even where the "knit" looks visible in the mohair sweaters, the yarn has actually been meticulous combed to ensure there's a high level of control, which Gibberd favours. It's a real mastery of textural composition as well as adding a new technical strand to knitwear, which would benefit from further research or perhaps a major house's endorsement.

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Ana Corina del Pinal Saenz

There's more technical wizardry from Ana Corina del Pinal Saenz, who wanted to create garments of minimal ease but maximal visual impact. Her silhouettes really "flowed" on the catwalk as they slinked and slided their way around the body. Your eyes were following the central textural theme of silicone coating and the way they changed the silhouettes on the body. A lot of people thought it was latex but in fact del Pinal Saenz experimented meticulously with coating different fabrics with liquid silicone, spreading it on to a surface in a thin layer so that it would solidify to add weight and subtle decoration to the fabrics as well as finishing the edges so they wouldn't need to be hemmed. Depending on the base fabric be it a smooth silk or a woven viscose, and how the silicone was brushed on to the fabric, you'd get different effects. For instance del Pinal Saenz would drag a metal comb through the silicone to achieve a fine-lined nubbly surface. There were also pigments she could add to get different coloured effects. There's infinite scope here for del Pinal Saenz to take this idea further for herself or for others.

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创意在这里并不是纸上谈兵

狐狸伦敦艺术设计工作室

FOX LONDON ART AND DESIGN STUDIO

狐狸伦敦艺术设计工作室是由英国伦敦中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院、美国帕森斯设计学院、英国皇家艺术学院、伦敦时装学院等名校的设计师、艺术家和艺术界的专家教授2010年于伦敦创立的新概念形式的艺术设计团队，为对艺术设计有浓厚兴趣和天赋的学者们提供最专业的留学艺术设计作品集辅导、艺术留学、艺术设计展览、设计师推广和商业合作。

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