[设计材料灵感库] 羽毛元素:世界顶级设计师和艺术家将羽毛元素运用到极致,仿佛生灵真实的存在

2015年08月27日 FOX国际艺术


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创意在这里并不是纸上谈兵



Feathers and plumage in fashion
celebrated at Antwerp exhibitio
n





Garments by Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler feature in an exhibition of feathered fashion at Antwerp's Mode Museum.


This image: Ann Demeulemeester, S/S 2008. Photograph by Dan Lecca. Main image: Alexander McQueen, A/W 2009. Photograph by François Nars

Birds of Paradise. Plumes and Feathers in Fashion at MoMu explores the application of the material through fashion history.


Ann Demeulemeester, A/W 2010-2011. Photograph by Dan Lecca


The exhibition is split into themed sections showcasing different textures, colours and uses of the material, with a focus on the designers who have adopted it for their apparel.


Dries Van Noten, A/W 2013-2014. Photograph by Patrice Stable


Visitors are greeted by a haute couture gown from Thierry Mugler's Spring Summer 1997 collection, which has bright feathers arranged in patterns like butterfly wings around an open back.


Dries Van Noten, A/W 2013-2014. Photograph by Bache Jespers


Fashion by late British designer Alexander McQueen, whose work heavily featured avian influences, is displayed and provides the poster image for the exhibition.


Cleave, mixed media with crow feathers by Kate McGwire, 2012. Photograph by Tessa Angus


Feathers also feature prominently throughout the work of Belgian designerAnn Demeulemeester, who selected silhouettes that highlight her use of the material for the exhibition.


Detail of Quell, mixed media with dove and pigeon feathers by Kate McGwire, 2011. Photograph by Tessa Angus


"Ever since I was a child I have had an enormous respect for feathers, and especially for pigeon feathers," she said. "To me a pigeon feather is poetry of the mundane, a form of perfection that is to be found on the streets by everyone."


Folding fan, mount in ostrich feathers dyed in degrade, tortoiseshell sticks decorated with a crown and arms in platinum, diamonds, rubies and enamel, 1928, Altenloh E&R jewelers, Brussels, Former collection Queen Astrid of Belgium, Royal Collections Palace of Brussels SA.1935.0088, Photograph by Stephen Mattues


Garments are on show by twentieth-century designers Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, who both covered dresses in feathers during the 1960s.


Hat trimming, cut and dyed feathers, MoMu collection T12/208. Photograph by MoMu/Suzan Rylant


Angelic white dresses covered in fluffy down are contrasted with sinister dark garments in shiny crow feathers by a variety of designers.


Hat trimming of feather quills and artificial flowers, MoMu collection T96/90C. Photograph by MoMu/Suzan Rylant


Sculptures by British artist Kate McGwire are dotted around the space. One large piece titled Gyre is made of crow feathers, often associated with bad luck.


Blue Angel A/W 2012-2013, Roger Vivier. Photograph courtesy of Roger Vivier


A section is dedicated to fans, which were often made from elaborate arrangements of dyed ostrich plumes for use in the courts of Europe.


Photograph of the exhibition by Boy Kortekaas


The garments and accessories are accompanied by paintings and taxidermy showing the species that different feathers come from.


Photograph of the exhibition by Boy Kortekaas


The history of the plumassier – or feather worker – dating back to seventeenth-century France is also explained.


Photograph of the exhibition by Boy Kortekaas


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创意在这里并不是纸上谈兵


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