总领事博文:北纬40度-我去东北“闯关东”

2014年10月30日 英国驻广州总领事馆


上个月,总领事摩根先生抽空去了趟东北辽宁省,在那里有见到了很多与广州不同的事物。充满了新奇和趣味。同时,也介绍了自己在广东省“游历”的体会。作为一个旅者,总领事很“走心”,一起来看看他笔下的“行走中国”吧。


终于天气凉了下来,没那么潮湿了。整个九月我都在盼望秋天的到来,同时也感到内疚。小时候,父亲曾告诫我期盼未来的幸福早日到来是不对的,因为那相当于盼望 自己人生的一部分早日逝去。而今年,甚于往年,我觉得这个漫长而潮湿的夏天实在令人无精打采。尽管知道我应该利用最后这段时间尽可能地在华南地区游览,我还是没有精力,提不起兴致。


我倒是打起精神去了趟辽宁省,度过了一个长周末。我住一个村落边上的小农庄里,离沈阳3个小时路程。我在北京时的其中一位中文老师是在这里长大的。她的父母招待我住他们家里。


这是我第一次睡炕。炕由底下的火炉的余热来供暖,火炉在带盖的钢盆下面,平日用作烹煮面条和饺子,燃料是玉米杆。


在我抵达之前,玉米便已收成,我在的时候他们正在给玉米剥皮。这次近百麻袋的收成颇为丰盛,由于附近农场的产量被干旱天气所影响,这些玉米的价格也将不错。我也想搭把手剥玉米皮,可干了一会儿就发现我的帮忙是多余的。


空气干爽,阳光明媚,散个步实在是舒心。田野风光很美丽,而且我没想到山路还挺崎岖。我不得不佩服那些劳作的驴子。有位农民起初对我有些戒备,以为我是间谍或者房地产商,后来他热情地招待了我。他邀请我尝了尝他收获的花生,不过他说今年的出品又干又少。


回到广州时,我颇为精力充沛,不过直到降温了,我才充分感受到我的兴致和精力都恢复了。我张望四周,定睛一看,仿佛眼睛里的积尘或白内障被扫除了一般。


我用了一天假期去爬罗浮山,此前我从没来过,坐在返程的大巴上,我观察着夜幕降临时路旁楼宇里的万家灯火。


我用另一个下午参观了沙湾古镇。虽然在国庆假期期间,那里游客却寥寥无几。以前去大夫山的时候我曾经看见过沙湾,可从没停留过。我很喜欢那些长长的铺路石,牡蛎壳铺的墙,祠堂祖庙,仍在使用的古墙,还有以山丘为背景,布置美观的广场。


我觉得这样一个有意思的地方虽然不算隐蔽,却并不广为人知或被广泛宣传,不像其它地方反而是城市主要的景区——这似乎是广州的特色。在广州我还有好多没看过的地方,然而在走之前却没有多少时间了。我很希望能再回来,虽然不知道是否还有机会。

At last it is cooler and less humid. All through September I found myself wishing for autumn though I felt guilty for doing so. When I was a small boy my father told me it was wrong to wish for the early arrival of future happiness, as this was tantamount to wishing away a part of one's life. This year, however, perhaps more than ever before, I found the long, humid summer enervating. Although I knew I should be trying to see as much as possible in my remaining time in South China, I lacked the energy and even the desire to do so.


I did shake off this torpor to travel to Liaoning Province for a long weekend. I stayed on a small-holding on the edge of a village about three hours from Shenyang. This was the farmstead where one of my mandarin teachers in Beijing had been brought up as a child. Her parents welcomed me to their home.


I slept for the first time on a kang. It was warmed by the residual heat from the oven under a steel basin with a lid, used to cook noodles one day and dumplings the next. The fuel from the oven was the roots of maize.


The maize had been harvested before I arrived and was stripped from its husks while I was there. It was a good harvest with nearly a hundred sacks, fetching a reasonable price as the yield from other farms nearby had been diminished by drought. I would have liked to lend a hand with the stripping, and did so briefly, but my assistance was superfluous.


It was a pleasure to walk in the dry air and bright sunshine. The countryside was quite beautiful and for me surprisingly hilly. I admired the many working donkeys. I was hailed by a farmer who initially treated me with great suspicion, as if I were a spy or a real eastate developer. But he later invited me to taste the peanuts he was harvesting, though he said these were dry and poor this year.


I returned to Guangzhou somewhat invigorated, but it was only later when the temperature fell here that I felt my interest as well as my energy revive. I started to look around me and to see again, almost is if scales or cataracts had been removed from my eyes.


I took a day's leave to climb Mount Luofu, which I had not visited before, and spent the journey back looking from the bus into the lighted windows of roadside buildings as night fell.


I spent another afternoon visiting Shawan Guzhen. Even though it was during the national holiday week there were rather few visitors. I had seen signs for Shawan when going to Dafushan but I had never been before. I admired the many longng paving-stones, the walls made out of oyster-shells, the ancestral halls and temples, an ancient well that was still in use and the setting of the great square with hills behind.


It seemed to me somehow typical of Guangzhou that such an interesting place, which elsewhere might be the main attraction of a town, is - though certainly not hidden - relatively little known and advertised. There is so much in Guangzhou that I have yet to see, and now so little time to see it before I leave. I hope I may come back to visit in the future , but do not know if I will ever again have the chance.


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