| 分享最近在买Car过程中看到的一篇文章，很系统的一篇买车攻略及建议，不管是买新车还是二手都挺值得一读。二手车市场水很深，建议要买车的同学多做一些关于车子的homework
| 原文URL：http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/buying_car_advice
| 为什么上正课后第三周开始Due的assignments辣么多(T _ T) ，请原谅闪电同学最近又开始 慢 慢 更 新 公 众 号 啦 哈 哈 哈
| 以下为全文👇
Buying a New Car
This thread discusses some of the tips on buying a new car: /forum-replies.cfm?t=1505609
Car Buying Websites
Research
What features do you need? What is your budget? Is it fuel efficient? Is it easy to service?
What is the history of the models you are considering? Have they been reliable? Are they tested? Have they sold well?
Test drive a number of models. Is it comfortable? Is it noisy? Does it have enough power? You can now book these online:
Have a friend go with you who knows about cars.
Things to look out for
Check the build date for the car before you sign the contract. The dealer may try to sell you a car that was built some time ago, and thus has been sitting in the car lot for a while. If you want a car that was built this year, say so. Make sure you understand the difference between build date and compliance date.
Be wary of dealers trying to pass off an ex-demonstrator vehicle as a new car. If you are only interested in a new car, make sure you tell them explicitly that you only want a brand new car. By NSW law, if a vehicle already has number plates and has been previously registered to anyone other than the new buyer, it is a second-hand motor vehicle, not a brand new car.
Inspect body work for scratches, dents, etc
Differing paint finishes – shows signs of respraying
Tips on bargaining
Do some online research on prices (car broking websites can be useful). Here are some of the websites for the brokers:
Be wary when going through car brokers as most will have a profit margin in their price to you. They need to factor in running costs just like any other business.
Referral fees; Most car brokers are paid a referral fee between $500 – $1000. Be sure to ask the broker how much they will receive from the dealer for your order.
It's simple to obtain a price from a dealer, and always check with them before committing to a broker.
Never buy a car without going back to the dealer three times asking for better specifications or a better price. This can be a high pressure situation and the buyer is at a disadvantage; you will only buy a few cars in your life but the dealer sells them everyday.
Work out your budget and get the dealer to come to your price
Dealers normally have sales in January to sell models imported the previous year and often have "end of financial" year sales. This will be the best time to buy.
Compare different dealers
Be very wary about offers of "after market" extras (tinting, seat protection, car mats) after you have agreed to buy the vehicle. Most of these are unnecessary (especially rust protection) or up to 100% overpriced. If you buy ask for a big discount.
When taking delivery/picking up your new car
Always check the car thoroughly to make sure you're receiving what you ordered, and that there is no damage/scratches on the car. DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING and do not hand over the balance of the payment until you're satisfied with the car. Any reputable dealer will always walk through the car with you before you sign. Take your time and go through a checklist.
Buying a Used Car
Car Inspections Services:
Sydney:
Car Buying Websites
National
Car Buying Apps
iPad/iPhone [Apple App Store]
Car Sales
Drive.com.au
Car Search Sell Australia www.gt.to/i
Android [Google Play]
Car Sales
Drive.com.au
Car Search Sell Australia www.gt.to/a
Check on and compare standard specifications. Check market prices on used cars.
Things to look out for
Checking finances owed
NSW
VIC
QLD
SA
WA
TAS
ACT
NT
Checking accidents history
NSW
VIC
QLD
SA
WA
TAS
ACT
NT
Tips on bargaining
Procedure for buying a used vehicle
Inspect vehicle body for damages
Dents
Scratches
Differing paint finishes *CAUTION*
This shows evidence of respraying. This can be from many reasons, be sure to ask owner as to why.
Inspect vehicle engine, etc
Includes service records/receipts, logbook, etc
Take to local trusted mechanic and ask for an inspection.
If not able to take to local mechanic, RACQ check is a must. (Requires car's VIN and chassis number)
REVS check (Requires car's VIN and chassis number)
Settle on desired price.
Settle on initial deposit.
Cash, bank transfer or bank cheque are all valid options. Bank cheque is most secure.
Make sure you have official letters with signatures from both parties (buyer and seller) stating agreed sales price and transfer/acceptance of initial deposit.
May want to start thinking about insurance at this point.
Once ready to complete transaction, double check for service receipts, logbook, etc are in order.
Then fill out relevant section on registration papers. Instructions said to be on left side. *Read and follow closely*
Once this is completed, tear along the perforated edges of the paper for the respective parties to keep.
Make final payment and smile away as you shake their hand and drive away
Go to nearest RTA/ Motor Registry and fill out a form for Application for Transfer of Registration. Pay the transfer fees and you're done.
Finalise insurance payments if haven't
Settle any ordeal with e-tag, etc.
ENJOY YOUR NEW CAR!!
Want to add special thanks to Vavoom for giving a detailed procedure which made the completing of this section possible.
Tips when buying a second hand car. Credit goes to "jmacman12" from the MightyCarMods Forum.
CAR BUYING TIPS:
The more stock a car is, the better off it may be. The car will be healthier and the risk factor of it being run hard is lower. In case of future modification you will have the option of keeping the stock parts, which will help you to sell it later but also in case you have troubles with aftermarket parts.
The fewer the owners the better. That way no information is lost along the way. Be wary of cars owned by older people because as most are driven too lightly they can gradually build up carbon over time from not being burned off by high temperatures. This will make the car sluggish and require more work. Also it is good to note that newer cars will need to reset the ECU (as simple as taking off the battery for 15min) as the ECU learns from your driving style and it will default to the original driver, causing poor performance.
Ask for documentation, it is key. If the owner doesn’t keep a record of service or any other work done to the car, then chances are he’s hiding something or hasn’t taken good care of the car. You don’t honestly know what you’re buying. Imported cars can be hard to find documentation for. If the car has been in the country for a while ask for as much info that they can supply. Use good judgment to avoid headaches later.
Mileage is not always a huge factor. If the owner can honestly say that the mileage is all (or majority highway) then high kilometers shouldn’t scare you. It’s healthier for the engine to run on the highway then in the city. However make sure you can verify this.
20,000km a year is average. When looking at a car match the present year to the year that the car was made. Multiply the difference in years by 20,000km, this is a guide to how many kilometers the car should have. Anything under and anything over should be questioned to verify the health of the engine. An example to use good judgment on would be a government or hire cars as they will have higher milage but they are serviced regularly as the fleet companies make sure they are done on time. But this isn't always a smart buy as they are driven really hard due to being company owned, not driver owned.
Cosmetics don’t define a good car. When buying privately its a imperative to see that the owner has maintained the car at all required stages of maintenance that way the car is most likely very healthy and nothings wrong. This is a semi repeat of number 3. Just because it looks clean and great doesn’t even remotely dictate that the car is worth buying. This method is often used by brokers as a way to get the automotively incompetent to buy the car. If buying an older car or buying in an area close to the sea or where it snows, take a strong fridge magnet with a rag underneath and run it along the metal parts of the car. If it sticks it then cosmetically it is ok, if it doesn't it could mean its been patched up with bog (after a crash) or it even has or had rust under the paint. Either could be simple to fix or very expensive, use good judgment.
Appearance isn't everything, If your going daily don't be dumb, don't overlook saloons (sedan), or 4 door hatch backs. If they are a true daily then after 2-3 months of a coupé you'll be kicking yourself in the arse for not buying a saloon or hatch back for space and convenience.
Check the pedals, seat wear and tear and plastic covers in the interior. Check the pedals to see how worn they are, if the grooves are significantly worn out but the car has low kilometres the mileage might not be honest or it may have done a lot of city driving. Verify the usual wear and tear from the seats and interior plastics to back up your statement. Use your logic to see if the wear and tear match the kilometers, if not question!
Check the oil, see if it is low, or has a white substance. If its white, stay away. If its low, look for leaking oil, if it leaks oil, you might want to do some research but your safest bet is to stay away also, unless you are automotively trained. Make sure its also not black or thick, this can mean the engine has not been serviced regular.
Clean your car and service it once you own it. You don’t want somebody
else's grime in your car once it’s yours. Its also a good way to find any problems as you are inspecting it very closely. Go watch Episode 6 and 16 from season 1 and/or check out milkchickens video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoppLpFRf9A See post underneath for further car care.Start the car and check for smoke from the exhaust and any other abnormal noises. See how long it takes to get the car from Park to Drive in an automatic and see how long it takes to engage the car from neutral to first in manual. If it takes long there might be a tranny problem. Cycle through all the gears to be safe. Go for a drive as well, clunking when changing gears or harsh changes can also be the sign of big issues with the gearbox. If the car is a Manual, make sure the gear changes are smooth and the clutch isn't noisy or slips. Be aware if the car has been "warmed" up before you go to look at it. Dealers and some private sellers can do this if the car has trouble starting or has other problems when cold like noisy belts or hard to engage gears. This is not always the case but try and do your car shopping early in the morning before they have time to start them up.
Tires can be a deal breaker in a low budget car! If the car you are looking for does not have any treads left and requires new tires you can expect to pay at least $500 for new tires! For people in colder climates if the car doesn’t have any winter tires and/or needs summer tires your looking at least 1.5k so think about this factor when buying.
Reconsider your budget. If you have 3k to spend on a car then consider all options and deduct it from your car budget. Consider registration cost, tires (post 12), insurance cost, cost to clean the car if your renting equipment or don’t have cleaning supplies (post 10) and read the following post underneath for further instructions to service your car when buying, so your budget can be adjusted. That 3k might easily have just gone up by 2k, so price accordingly!
Don't under estimate fuel economy; gas is expensive. If your a full time student who works very few hours then dont shy away from a fuel economic car until you have more money or a full license for a different car!
If it's too good to be true, it might. If you see a skyline r34 gtst for sale with low kms by a private buyer for 5 grand, does this seem reasonable to you? Always be a skeptic to be safe, which is why you are using the guide. We always neglect reality in order to tailor to our needs and demands first since the news is great! However search around your favorite car buying websites to give yourself your own idea as to how much the car costs. If it doesn't fall in that window then there is something seriously wrong with the car or it could be a phishing scheme. Be sure to report all scams and phishing schemes to your local authorities to save somebody else the trouble!
Get the car inspected before you buy it! You can save yourself a lot of money and headaches by doing this first. If you are ready to buy the car, a hundred dollars or so might seem like a lot to get it inspected if you choose not to buy it but that 100 dollars could save you thousands in the long run! Often arrangements with the buyer are the best way to go such as a 50/50 split or have him include it in the price if you buy it. After the inspection get a background check done from REVS using the VIN number to further your car inspection research. This too could save you a few headaches in the future with resale as unmentioned accidents aren't nice to discover 5 years after you bought the car. If you are buying the car be sure to verify the REGO as well as this could reduce the sale of the car 500$ or so.
Head over to the front line; go ask a mechanic of the particular manufacturer what they have to say about the car and what to look out for. Who knows the car better then the people who service them?
Research has its limit. You can research and know as much as you want about a car, but until you have seen the car in person and have driven it, you cannot make your decision whether you want it or not. The feel of the car is completely different from what you read online and is not something that can be described
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