“珍珠”的无限可能|中央圣马丁最具颠覆的概念珠宝设计

2016年01月30日 FOX国际艺术


图文编辑|FOX

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Bella Mung

Animated Jewellery|Bella Mung


“First of all,  I think jewellery can be an object not meant to be worn.  As jewellery can be alive by itself without the wearer.  Therefore in the collection, I am exploring different ideas related to animation of jewellery.  


From the starting point, I was inspired by my mother – she always wears a silver chain, I have never seen her take it off from when I was small until now.  Usually the chain is partly hidden beneath her clothes.  I was interested and intrigued by the way she wears the chain – the relationship between public and private, visible and invisible.  Therefore, I copied my mother by putting her long pearl necklace beneath my everyday clothing.  As the pearl necklace has some volume, so the clothes took it’s shape and form to create an embossed pattern, to intrigue the viewer and give an illusion of the necklace running through under the clothes.



Bella Mung
Piece: Pearl Hoodie, 2013

Textile, pearls


To inform my work, I have been reading books about the history of the pearl and the relationship between pearl necklace and the society.  Therefore, I created ‘The double life of a necklace’ which is unisex, it can easily change to tie or reverse with the necklace magnet clasp.


For most of the collection, I have chosen to use everyday clothes with the combination of pearl necklace ‘running through’.  For example some of the pieces are the everyday wear T-shirt or T-shirt shape with different materials.  And other pieces are usually worn everyday – Oxford shoes, white canvas shoes and a hoodie.  All the pieces in my collection are serious but at the same time also full of humour”.  



BEATRICE BONGIASCA

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Beatrice and I am from Milan, but I have been studying BA Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins in London for the last four years. I am very lucky to have found my passion so early in life because it truly is what I want to do in my life.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My final collection ‘The Western Orient’, which was inspired by the increasing importance of the Asian market in today’s society, is a merge between the Orient’s heritage and the West’s strong consumer capitalist culture. The motifs embedded within the jewellery hold symbiotic connotations which function as a social critique of the globalisation in Eastern Asia.

This piece in particular is based more on the Western aspect as it focuses on the phenomenon of conspicuous consumption by means of stating the ‘price’ on the pearls.

What do you like most about pearls?

I like how timeless and elegant pearls are and the contrast that they create in my work, which uses very contemporary imagery. The pearls in my collection make my jewellery look more refined as they give it a lustrous classic undertone.

What’s your motto?

“Dream big”


CLAUDIA RICE

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

My name is Claudia Rice and I have come into the craft of jewellery making and designing from having my father (and his father) in the jewellery business all his life as my influence. Starting as a watchmakers apprentice at 15, he was a traveling salesman for Mikimoto and Rosita Pearls during the 70s, setting up workshop in Hatton Garden to having his own shop in Marylebone high street, where I spent a lot of my time.

These surroundings have fed my desire to be part of that and continue my family trade.

What was the inspiration for this piece?

My inspiration stemmed from research into my dissertation on the subject of The History of Hatton Garden and my family connection with it. Becoming intrigued by maps of old London, discovering locations of ‘hidden treasures’, using an A-Z from 1969 and making a link with the modern technology of Google Maps.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

Winning a design award from the Worshipful Company of Tin Plate workers.

What’s your motto?

“What goes around…”


EMILY WRIGHT

 

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am a quietly confident person, I enjoy being creative and I don’t work well under pressure!

What was the inspiration for this piece?

The theme for my collection is reconnecting with those we have lost, through every day gestures, such as the simplicity of placing a necklace on a loved one.

What’s next for you?

Graduating (hopefully) and going into the world of work.

What do you like most about pearls?

I love the simplicity of pearls, they are glamorous in a beautiful yet understated way.

What has been your best experience or moment at CSM?

I have enjoyed the opportunities CSM has provided, and the opportunities we have had that we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere else.

Who is your favourite designer or artist and why?

I love the sculptures of Barbara Hepworth, I love the simplistic designs and the perfection in the lines.

What’s your motto?

“The best things in life aren’t things.”



END

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