*本文内容来源：Yan Ni （漫山酒庄 Hither & Yon）
作为南澳州最重要的葡萄酒产区之一，麦克拉仑谷历史悠久，南澳州的第一家酒庄就建立于此。这里也以绿色环保的种植理念闻名，许多酒庄都尊崇有机和（或）生物动力学种植。
麦克拉仑谷
Hither & Yon 漫山酒庄，就坐落于这块美妙的土地之上。酒庄品牌经理（Brand Manager）Yan Ni，最近受到麦克拉仑谷葡萄酒旅游协会（McLaren Vale Grape Wine Tourism Association，MVGWTA）邀请，成为麦克拉仑谷的一位宣传大使。
以此为契机，Yan采访了Hither & Yon酒庄的酿酒师与酿酒顾问，以下是她的采访全文（中英文双语），也许我们能够窥一斑以见全豹，感受到麦克拉仑谷的神奇与魅力。
左起为：Yan，Richard，Josh，摄于漫山酒庄
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
麦克拉仑谷，McLaren Vale，只要一念名字就口留芬芳。
自1838年以来，麦克拉仑谷就开始酿造葡萄酒。葡萄园被延绵舒展的沙滩环抱，最近的葡萄园距海只有400米。海风让葡萄的果实呼吸着一缕南太平洋的咸鲜，让它们有不太寒冷的冬天，再加上，南澳大利亚太阳的微笑足以炼金。
澳大利亚转暖，枝叶茂盛起来，葡萄园一片绿意盎然，今年对于麦克拉仑谷是个相当好年头，在葡萄田间，我采访了两位资深酿酒师Richard和Josh，希望通过这次采访，从耕耘者口中让你能够真实地了解到麦克拉仑谷是怎样一片被眷顾的热土。
在漫山酒庄工作的酿酒师们
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Richard LEASK
2017 Graduate of Wine Australia’s “Future Leaders Program”
2017 荣誉参加澳洲葡萄酒局“未来行业领袖项目”
2016 Best Viticulturist in McLaren Vale
被评为2016麦克拉仑谷最优秀葡萄栽培者
Winemaker of Hither & Yon
漫山酒庄酿酒师
Vineyard Manager for S.C.Pannell
同时胜任巴耐尔酒庄的葡萄园主管
Joshua WAECHTER
Hither & Yon Winemaking Consultant
漫山酒庄酿酒顾问
Certified Organic and Biodynamic winemaker with broad industry experience
有机生态酿酒师资质，具有广博的知识和丰富的经验
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Yan: McLaren Vale is a very beautiful name. Have you ever found that so many wine regions in Australia are named by Valley but only McLaren Vale is named by Vale, for example we have Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Hunter Valley and so on, I am curious what’s the difference between Valley and Vale?
Yan: 麦克拉仑谷是个很美的名字，你们有没有发现很多澳大利亚产区都以“valley”来命名，而只有麦克拉仑谷被称为“vale” (valley与vale两词都直译为峡谷)。比如我们熟悉的巴罗萨谷，克莱尔谷，猎人谷等等。我很好奇valley与vale之间的差异是什么？
Josh: Emh, I think a valley is much bigger than a vale.
Josh: 嗯，我认为都作为峡谷之意，valley要比vale更大一些。
Richard: I think it could probably throw back to when it was settled, settled by English. So it’s an old English name we won’t use it nowadays. Because it made them feel at home. And “Vale” have a couple of literary meaning I don't know what i it is but I suspect, that probably where I came from. If you think about Clare, it was found by Polish, Barrosa was found by Germans… so they would use “Valley”, “Vale” is a term very English. Ehm, “Valley” if you look at the lexical term it would be a very high state, but “Vale” I will say it’s more talking about a rolling countryside than any geographical particular.
Richard: 我认为这可以追溯到早期英格兰人到这里定居。这是一个很古老的英语现在几乎不再使用了。因为vale这个词让他们有家的感觉。这个词有些文学上的意义，虽然我不太清楚确切，但我猜想如此。克莱尔谷是被波兰人发现的，巴罗萨谷是由德国人发现的，所以他们使用了valley，而vale这个词非常的英式，它描述和传达更多的是山丘起伏的田园生活，而并非一种特有的地理风貌。
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Yan: We planted a lot of Italian varietals in McLaren Vale, it’s because of the climate, or it’s mostly because of some Italian immigrants also came here to live?
Yan: 我们在麦克拉仑谷栽种很多意大利的葡萄品种，主要是因为气候所致还是因为后期有很多意大利移民也选择来这里生活？
Richard: It’s interesting, I think the introductoin of Italian varietal it’s based purely on climate. It works with the proximity of ocean if you look at the temperature, you look at Nero D’Avola, Silily’s predominant variety in southern land of Italy. So, again, close to the ocean. The Italian themselves didn’t actually really bring any indigenous varieties with them, they turned up from abroad, worked and thought the culture and the family unit they had probably would fit in McLaren Vale. However, they planted traditional French varieties because the market wanted these. At that stage they probably weren’t brave enough and safe enough to put in something from their homeland. So the lead towards these varietals is based on climate which is hot and dry, doesn’t need a lot of water. These varietals from Portugal, Spain and Italy are definitely great varietals eventually.
Richard: 这个很有趣，意大利葡萄品种的引进都基于这里的气候。假如你留意温度，你会发现它们很适合毗邻大海生长。拿黑珍珠来说吧，南部意大利西西里岛的主要品种，也是依海而生。意大利人其实并没有真正把他们本土品种带过来，他们到了这里也许发现从文化和家庭的角度很适合在这里居住，但是他们依然栽种法国的传统品种，因为那是当时的市场需求。那时候他们也许没有足够的胆量，栽种意大利品种也比较冒险。所以这些品种的出现是因为气候的炎热干燥，它们也不需要太多的水分。 像这些葡萄牙，西班牙和意大利的葡萄品种，确实最终都发现非常适合这里的风土。
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Yan: We say McLaren Vale’s climate is good for planting Italian, Portugese or Spanish varietals, I believe it might still have something different in terms of the taste if compared with the wines made in those original countries.
Yan: 我们说麦克拉仑谷的气候适宜栽种这些葡萄牙、西班牙和意大利的葡萄品种，但我还是相信对比起原产地的相同葡萄酒，始终存在口感上的差别。
Josh: It’s hard one to measure. I think one of the biggest differences we are still saying is the vine age. So about here, the Italian varietals are quite young so producing the wines are quite fresh and fruity. Well back to Italy, a lot of vines are quite old and deep in soil so they have more texture and more depth of flavor. Just in the vine age itself, that’s the difference at this moment, but I think as we keep going vintage after vintage you will see more texture and depth come from the vineyards as it’s mature.
Josh: 这个很难衡量，我觉得最大的差异就在葡萄藤的年龄上。对于这儿来说，栽种的意大利品种普遍很年轻，所以出产的酒果味浓郁且新鲜。说回到意大利，很多葡萄藤都很老了，深入土壤的根使得他们产的酒更有纹理，风味层次也更多。如果单方面从葡萄藤的年龄来说的话，这是目前的区别，不过我们的年份也在更替，我们会看到更多的纹理和层次。
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Yan: We have a sort of stereotype that when we are talking about the vine, the older the better, is that true?
Yan: 我们有些刻板印象，是不是葡萄藤越老越好？
Josh: Ehm it’s depends on what quality it was. I think there’s a point that old vines get old but also young vines produce really good fruits so…
Josh: 这也要取决于葡萄藤的质量。经过多年生长，老藤有其好的一面，但同时年轻的葡萄藤也能出产高质的果实。
Richard: I think it’s more about the balance. If you look at the life span of the vine, the first few years when they go to their lessons if you like as a child is still learning, is still growing is still understading how they can fit into the landscape. Well the old vine in the end potentially I think there’s a point where they reach the limit and get old and they are going to decline. But in the middle, which can be a very big window where the vines are performing absolutely optimistic, balanced, high levels which doesn’t need to very much year to year to get complex wines. It can happen in early years in some blocks, some blocks take a little bit more of time but generally, I will say that vines from 5 to 6 years old if are well managed can produce vey high quality wine. I don't necessarily subscribe the idea that it has to be old to be great.
Richard: 这是一个平衡的关系。如果你看一株葡萄藤的寿命，头几年，它还像一个小孩子一样，不断学习，不断生长，不断让自己去适应这片土地。对于老藤来说，总会达到一个极限，衰亡。但是在两者之间有一个很大的窗口，葡萄藤会表现得出色，平衡，高质，酿造具有复杂度的美酒，并不一定需要很多很多年时间的葡萄藤。一些葡萄园很早就能达到这个状态，一些葡萄园所需的时间会稍微长一些，但总体来说，如果管理完善的话，5到6岁的葡萄藤就能出产酿制非常高品质的葡萄酒了。我不太认可说葡萄藤越老越好。
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Yan: It’s pretty much like a human. So for the average McLaren Vale’s vine, which stage are we in?
Yan: 那这和人类一样。所以对于麦克拉仑谷，我们是处于其中一个什么样的阶段？
Richard: Well, if we look at the last planting boom which was in the early 90s’, those vines are riding the zone of 20-30 years old now, we got a really good base of mature fruit I think you have probably seen the quality is going up as the vines are matured.
Richard: 如果我们回顾在九十年代发生的最后一次耕种热潮，这些葡萄藤距今也有20-30年了，我们的藤更为成熟，所以也就是为什么你看到我们的品质在不断攀升。
Yan: So for Hither & Yon vines, what do you think?
Yan: 那漫山酒庄的葡萄园呢？
Richard: Hither & Yon is lucky, we have spread of both. Young and new planting which has freshness, and some old plantings give it more texture and body. We have some good blending options we can play with so it’s quite balance.
Richard: 漫山酒庄很幸运同时兼得新老葡萄园。新葡萄园使酒鲜活，老葡萄园就给予更多的质感和酒体。我们可以选择将两者混酿，从而达到平衡。
Richard: The other thing I will say about is that the Italian variety as the new variety, we have the opportunity here to make them truly Australian versions of where they come from, so we don’t necessarily, I don't subscribe to make as an exact copy of what they are making. I’d like to see them in our Australian style suit our palate. We don't want them all look like Shiraz, but we want them to show some characteristics they don't show in Italy etc. So it’s not only the vine age, but also in some stage is the country’s decisions to make some changes how we make them and present them.
Richard: 另外我想说的是意大利葡萄品种作为这里的新品种，我们完全有机会让它展现出澳洲的特色，我们没必要完全照搬。我希望看到它有独特的澳洲风格来适合当地口感。当然我们也不想让它品起来都如同设拉子，我们只是想让它展现一些在意大利不会表现的特征。所以也并不完全是葡萄藤年龄的问题，从某种层面上看也是一个国家的选择，选择怎么酿制它，展现它。
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Yan: What’s the style of McLaren Vale wines compared with wines from other Australian wine regions?
Yan: 相比起澳洲其他产区，麦克拉仑谷葡萄酒的特色是什么？
Josh: So, if we talk about Shiraz, the difference between Barossa is deeper, full bodied, and McLare Vale wine is quite juicy, fresh, medium bodied. We have stucture but I don't think we are super rich and big bold style. If we go to Adelaide Hills, you will find again, much more cool climate style, also Victoria, which is spicier. We find we have elements of other regions, creating our own hallmark.
Josh: 我们拿设拉子举个例子，巴罗萨酿造的设拉子厚实，酒体丰满，麦克拉仑谷酿造的设拉子比较新鲜爽口多汁，相对而言酒体没有那么重，具有层次感但绝非超级浑厚。如果谈起阿德莱德山产区，你会发现它表现出来的是凉爽气候的风格，维多利亚出产的辛辣感就更加强烈些。我们兼具这些产区的元素，也在创造自己的特色。
Richard: I think it’s fruit freshness we see here, and I think some of that are winemaking and some of that are regional charachters. We are quite fortunate, it’s a point of discussion but I think right now, it’s actually now the younger vine age for us. I think McLaren Vale now it is a younger region in general so it has opportunity to rewrite some of the story, I think we are beginning to understand we don't have to be like Barrosa, you actually need to be what McLaren Vale is, so you see the wine style. New varieties to help drive that, Grenache is helping to drive that, I think it’s flowing into Shiraz, the Shiraz style will look different in 5 years’ time when it does. So the fruit freshness is what we are about. Less new oak, being very gentle, expressing site and place.
Richard: 这里展现出来的是新鲜浓郁的果香，这是酿酒过程的选择，也是产区面貌使然。我们很幸运，我们没有太多历史的牵绊，我觉得麦克拉仑谷普遍看还是属于新近产区，所以我们有机会改写故事。我们懂得，我们无需与巴罗萨相仿，麦克拉仑谷就是麦克拉仑谷。所以你看这里的葡萄酒风格，新品种的栽培成就了这样的特色，歌海娜的的惊人表现也成就了这样的特色。这也在设拉子身上得到展现。归根结底说的还是一个新鲜的果味。不用过多新桶，更温和的人工干预，展现葡萄园与产区的风土人情。
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Yan: When you talk about it has the opportunity to rewrite the story, do you think McLaren Vale has potential to be a leader in the new wine world?
Yan: 当你们谈及麦克拉仑谷有机会重写历史，你们认为麦克拉仑谷有成为新世界产区领袖的潜质吗？
Josh: I think it can be an innovative region. People are willing to do stuff outside of the way.
Josh: 我们可以成为一个创新的产区，人们乐意做一些打破常规的事。
Yan: Innovative…
Yan: 创新…
Josh: Yeah, Emh, I think we don’t have the vineyard size to become a leader, but I think we could become someone who makes noise, in another way could be become the leader role making wine style.
Josh: 对，我觉得我们葡萄园的面积相对比较小，在这方面很难说可以成为一个领袖，但我们从其他方面，比如酿造新的葡萄酒风格上，可以成为领袖，在世界上制造与众不同的反响。
Richard: We are 5-6 years ahead to most wine regions because we are early adopted for planting. I think we will influence how Shiraz are grown and perceive Australia because there’s more people here to push the envelope in terms of stylistically, changing it, bringing it back in terms of alcohol, in terms of flavor, making it much more to approached wine. And I think we will be the point of difference in Shiraz, people’s review of McLaren Vale Shiraz is much much more different. I think we do have an opportunity to influence and I say that about Shiraz because the Grenache, we already influenced the way that Grenache made in Australia. We are now by practice by far, that is something now world renowed. We should stand up and say we are as good as anyone who grows this variety, I think we could do to Shiraz and it will all happen too.
Richard: 由于我们比别的产区更早种植葡萄，我们对于大部分澳洲产区都领先5-6年。我认为我们如何种植设拉子，将会影响人们如何认知澳大利亚葡萄酒，因为现在越来越多的人在风格上有所超越，开拓新领域，无论从酒精度、从风味上都让它更易饮。人们会觉得麦克拉仑谷的设拉子与众不同。我认为我们有这个能量来影响这个认知，因为麦克拉仑谷的歌海娜早已出类拔萃，通过实践至今，名声已经享誉世界。我们应该站出来说，我们可以和任何一个栽种同品种的地区较量，我们确实会产生影响力，而且必将如此。
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Yan: I quite like 'Innovative' this word which you use Josh, thank you. But innovative path is always harder to go. Have you ever encountered any difficulty that made you want to give up?
Yan: Josh，我很喜欢你用的“创新”这个词，创新的路一直都更加艰难，你们有没有遇到什么事情让你们有放弃的念头？
Richard: (Laugh) The only influence that you cannot control is the weather. Everything Yan’s saying is asking me to do something else but…(Laugh) Everything worthwhile is tough Yan.
Richard: （大笑）唯一不可控的阻挠就是天气，Yan说的这些感觉想让我另谋生路，但是…（大笑），每一件值得做的事情都很艰辛啊，Yan。
Josh: There are always difficulties. Individual challenge is up because every year is always different. We look at the vineyards and say what can we do here to make the wine the best possibility it can be. There’s no point all the fruit comes out in exactly the same way and all the wine comes out in exactly the same way in the end. But never give up. It’s a challenge.
Josh: 总是有困难的。每一年都会有不同的挑战，我们只能说对葡萄园鞠躬尽瘁，尽力让它产出最佳的果实。不可能说每年都收成一模一样的葡萄，酿造一模一样的酒。但是我们永远都不会放弃，这是一个挑战。
（图片来源：Hither & Yon）
Yan: I am the brand ambassador of Hither & Yon, presumably you know it even better than me (laugh). I am so proud because I love wine, love art, I’ve never seen the wine could be like that and it is exactly what I want. People use "avant-garde" and “contemporary" words to describe Hither & Yon, how do you feel about it? Except for packaging, in wine style as well.
Yan: 我是漫山酒庄的大使，其实你们应该比我更了解它。我喜欢葡萄酒喜欢艺术，我从没有见过把葡萄酒玩儿成这样的，这完全是我一直在寻找的，我相当自豪。人们用“前卫”和“当代”来形容漫山，你们喜欢这两个词吗？除去包装层面，酒的风格上也很有体现。
Josh: Pretty cool words! Like winemaking, it’s an intuition, an artistry, a feel, for how the thing is going both in the vineyard and in the winery. That allows your own personality on it. We might be all the same in scientistic things but in the end we will do something just feel it’s right of the time and pass the footprint on that. So a lot of things we do is non-based on a lot of data and piece of pizza and there’s an element that just requires you take your feeling go for to do what you think is right.
Josh: 这俩词儿很酷啊！拿酿酒来说，不管在葡萄田间或是酿酒厂，它是一种直觉，一种艺术，一种感受。你可以大胆把自己的性格放进去。我们可能学习到的科学方法都是一样的，但是最终我们都会在自己感觉正确的那个时间点做一些事情，并且跟着自己的脚印走上前去。所以我们做的事很多都不是基于大量的数据，而是跟随内心。
Richard: Sometimes the best result is we do nothing, you don’t have necessarily to do things all the time.
Richard: 有时候最好的结果就是顺其自然，心有局囿，剑法便不纯，随心并非没有意义。
优质的风土、悠久的传统、充满热情的酿酒师，造就了麦克拉仑谷如今的辉煌和必将更为耀眼的未来。
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